Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Monticello Vineyards/Corley Family - 178

I have heard that Napa valley is home to 200 wineries, 300 wineries, and 400 wineries. I have never been able to get an exact number and I imagine there are more winery producers than there are those with actual facilities. With that in mind, having driven up and down the valley several hundred times, it was a wrong turn down a side road that proved the most exciting -- a winery I had never seen before, Monticello!

The reason I had never seen Monticello before is because it is located on a little-known side road that runs in between the Silverado Trail and Highway 29 known as Big Ranch Road. It is mostly a giant quilt-work of planted vineyards with a farmhouse here and a Victorian replica there. But then there is this Jeffersonian replica belonging to the Corley family.

Jay Corley began as a grape grower in 1970 and built the stately facilities, opening his winery in the late 1980s. I was charmed by the staff and their warmth and interested in a number of wines that were not available to taste; a sparkling as well as a botrytis-affected Semillon. They refer to these wines as "secrets" and while I enjoyed the wines I did taste, I was most intrigued by the others.

2004 Monticello Vineyards Estate Grown Chardonnay - A classically designed California Chardonnay with a light aroma of green apple and kiwi. Crisp, defined mouth entry shows well-integrated oak with a touch of creaminess. Balanced and textured. $26.00

2003 Monticello Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir - Fabulously rich nose of ripe raspberry and strawberry. Complex with red fruit and earth, the soft tannins showed excellent heightened acidity and a long, supple finish. $34.00

2003 Monticello Vineyards Estate Merlot - Spicy fruit and dark, toasty oak bouquet with secondary aromas of green terroir. Tight mouth entry is constricted, but expands with swirling and aeration. Full bodied, muted flavors of dark fruit are moderated with supple tannins. A young wine that I would love to try in five or ten years. $30.00

2001 Monticello Vineyards, Jefferson Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon - Black fruit and green bell pepper with dark, dusty twigs and dried flowers in the nose. Young, flavors of cedar and cocoa dominates black fruit. $34.00

Monticello Vineyards/Corley Family Napa Valley ~ 4242 Big Ranch Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-253-2802
$10.00 tasting

Carrefour - 167

There is always a pang of guilt when I am introduced to a Napa-based winery that I had never heard of before. At the Copia Cognoscente tasting, I was wracked with guilt seeing a roomful of unfamiliar names. So I was extremely grateful to a few folks who stuck around during the lunch break to chat with me, first and foremost, Greg and Marilyn Nitz, proprietors of Carrefour Vineyards, along with their winemaker, Kelly De'Ianni (she's the one on the far left).

With fifteen acres of grapes that they had previously been selling to Rombauer and still sell to Duckhorn, the 2004 their Sauvignon Blanc is now their first release. Additional grapes planted include most of the Bordeaux varietals with Pinot Noir coming from purchased grapes in Carneros. Great people and great wines -- and something new worth looking out for!

2004 Oak Knoll Sauvignon Blanc - Intense green fig and floral bouquet. Grapefruit entry is balanced and vibrant without being astringent. The lemony finish shows depth and elegance. Only 340 cases produced. $16.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir - 1,200 cases produced of this new entry on the Pinot market. Bright spicy cherry in the nose mirrors the mouth entry. Tons going on in layers of complex fruit and integrated spice. The overall structure is medium bodied and the finish keeps going. $28.00

2003 Napa Valley Cabernet - 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot. Dark, rich purple wine. Still unreleased, the flavors are admittedly young with depth of herb and mineral. Fruit is still tight and I would love to taste this wine in five or ten years. Not yet priced.

Carrefour ~ No address yet available ~ 707-252-9167

Robert Biale Vineyards - 136 & WBW!

This is a truly exciting post for me. To start, it is Wine Blog Wednesday where Brother Lenn has asked us to Drink Local. The assignment this month is to go and find the winery closest to your home. To my knowledge, I am the only blogger who actually lives in Napa so I have a distinct advantage over say, someone living in Utah... But in a way it was actually a bit difficult. My initial thoughts were that I was either in close proximity to either Laird or Trefethen. I initially posted on Lenn's site that at least I didn't live next to Screaming Eagle, which would have been decidedly expensive! I started perusing GoogleMaps and asked winemaker Karen Culler about a suspicious plot of vineyards that I had never noticed before and it is truly fabulous to have access to great people who can help answer questions...

A phone call or two later and some time spent on GoogleMaps and I see that a mile-and-a-half (as the crow flies) or 2.8 driving miles away from my humble abode lies a winery about which I knew nothing, Robert Biale Vineyards. So here I get to kill two birds with one stone -- a brand new entry in my ongoing blog as well as a really cool installment to WBW! Serendipity was definitely at play here, as the Biale tasting room has been open a whopping two weeks!

The facilities are brand spanking new, but these guys are hardly the new kids on the block. Robert Biale's family started growing Zinfandel grapes in Napa in the 1920s and now specializes in local historic vineyards. A third generation Napan, Robert has a reliable and dedicated crew (if Jayme, whom I met during my visit, is any indication).

Along with producing vineyard-specific zinfandels (some from 100+ year-old vines), with Al Perry heading up winemaking, additional very cool varietals now carry the Biale moniker; Petite Sirah, Syrah, Barbera, and Sangiovese. Al works closely with the growers from whence Biale's grapes are grown and feels passionately about these grapes which are distinctly Californian.

As indicated, Jayme was the host for the day in the newly-built tasting room. It is an appointment-only establishment, but one worth seeking out, if only to hear the story of the black chicken... But go and taste and buy these wines. They are astonishing in their character and distinct disposition; worthy of aging as their depth shows, but astonishing young.

2003 Grande Zinfandel - This was the second vintage from the Rossi Vineyards produced under the Biale name. The wine is slighty cloudy dark garnet in color and at first demonstrates rich blackberry and boysonberry liqueur aromas, immediately giving way to aromas of freshly-cracked black pepper, sweet and aromatic. The mouth entry is smooth and continues the blackberry tones, but expands to reveal hints of herbs and rich, complex finish. $40.00

2002 Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley Zinfandel - Sweet cherry nose that is distinctly berry in structure. Developed with deep floral qualities and a long, spicy finish thatis not biting or hot. The Monte Rosso is specifically 110-year old vines and the wine certainly shows its pedigree. $46.00

2002 Thomann Station Petite Sirah - From famous vineyards in St. Helena near Sutter Home, this wine is inky black red and produces a bouquet of elegant licorice, blackberry liqueur, and faint hint of ground coffee. The wine coats the tongue in a supple and velvety fashion showing some brighter acid on the front with a tease of coffee on the finish. $50.00

2002 Gaudi Carli Barbera - Very enticing dark garnet red color. Floral notes that are rustic, spicy, and elegant with a touch of candied cinnamon and a whisper of sweet anise. The entry is at first smooth, silky, and touch sweet. There is more spice on the nose than on the tongue. The acids brighten on the mid-palate and develops into a long, structured finish. $35.00

Robert Biale Vineyards ~ 4038 Big Ranch Road ~ Napa ~ CA 94558 ~ 707-257-7555

Steltzner - 126

Dick Steltzner was born and raised in in Northern California and was inspired early on to enter the wine industry with Ernst Wente as his mentor. After college and some savvy real estate dealings which got him a small piece of property in the Stag's Leap District, Dick found himself in the business of vineyard management. This was the 1970s.

By 1980 he started making his own wine in a building that had been constructed in 1915 as a prune dehydrating shed. Converting that building into a winery, his production grew from 3,000 cases to 5,000 by 1990. Now there is a Mediterranean-style complex in place of the prune building, and the business is up to 15,000 cases a year.

Now Dick has daughter Allison at his side, learning the ropes and ready to continue her father's legacy. The wines are classic Bordeaux varietals, expected for the Stag's Leap appellation, but a few additional surprises await. The tasting room is intimate, with a living room ensemble and a baby grand piano in the corner.

The staff is helpful, offering tasting comments as the wine is being poured. I actually prefer to make my own determinations before having flavors indicated, but I can certainly see the benefit to newbie wine tasters who are still learning about flavors that are in wine. I still took my own notes, not relying on what I was being told...

2004 Chardonnay, Oak Knoll Estate - No malo in the wine which was 100% fermented in stainless stell. Overt tropical fruits of pineapple and kiwi presented on the nose. Rich floral tones and easy entry. Complex white peach finish. $18.00

2004 Rosé of Shiraz - Fascinating offering. Meaty raspberry and a hint of strawberry on the nose that is not sweet, but deep. Medium to thin entry that shows some peach a minerals on the mid-palate. A bit more mineral finish that desired. Curious that they are growing Shiraz, but making a rosé with it. $18.00

2002 Merlot, Stags Leap District - Dusty twig and floral tones that subside to show some cherry and dark berry.  Juicy entry with muted tannins. $26.00

2001 Sangiovese - Possibly opened the day before as oxidized notes predominate. I did detect raspberry under the dusty twig with a faint whiff of licorice. $38.00

2002 Claret - 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 30% Merlot. Jammy blackberry with integrated sweet black licorice in its core. A faint hint of green bell pepper just hides behind, classic Stags Leap District. The rich, oppulent nose follows into the initial mouthfeel, showing spice and dark fruit but finishes a bit chalky and dry. $16.00

1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District - Bricky red in color with obvious age. Smoky twigs and soft berries show in the nose. Medium bodied in the mouth feel displaying muted flavors despite the spicy nose. A bit of sen-sen burn in the back of the throat. $36.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District - Purplish in color, very bright and very fresh in tone. Cinnamon spice and hints of green olive are coupled with the fresh fruit. Juicy and long finish. $36.00

NV Terraces Merlot Port - Berry jam and black licorice couple with integrated dusty twig bouquet. The initial taste is decidedly sweet with the lovely spices being slightly toned down. $34.00/375ml

Steltzner Vineyards ~ 5998 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-252-7272

Trefethen - 100

Trefethen has a lot going for it. It is one of the very first wineries that tourists see when they start their drive up Highway 29 as they enter the Napa Valley. Trefethen is also very tongue-in-cheek with their Sideways back-handed Merlot comment above their sign. Thank goodness for their sign, as their winery is nestled among the vines, hidden far back off the main street.

The building complex is located in the Oak Knoll Appellation which is one of the newest appellations established in the Napa Valley. One could say it is the love child of Janet Trefethen who spearheaded it into existence. Her winery building was part of the 1886 boom year of construction of gravity fed wineries and much of its original splendor is still evident in its grace and charm.

The tasting room is cozy with two tasting bars on opposite ends of the room and a private Library Tasting Room in a separate part of the building. The Library Tasting Room is by appointment while the adjacent, public room is open standard hours. There are some of the standard retail items, but of special note in a place of honor is an original piece of artwork by the renown Gerard Puvis who creates 'sculptures' out of the wine foils from the necks of bottles.

2004 Dry Riesling, Oak Knoll - Dry means low in sugar; .76% RS to be exact. This produces a clean, floral nose that hints of exotic flowers and some citrus. Those same flavors appear in the mouth entry and produce an easy-drinking, balanced offering that I would easily pair with some spicy Thai food on a hot afternoon. $18.00

2003 Estate Chardonnay, Oak Knoll - With only 26% malo, I found this wine to have balanced qualities of ripe tropical melon and creamy vanilla in both aromas and flavors. Some hints of mineral on the finish don't diminish this easy-drinking wine. $28.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Oak Knoll - Warm, blossomy raspberry and cherry just barely hide an earthy base. Hints of dried flowers show in the nose and expand in the mouth to a long finish of dried cranberry and a touch of spice. $30.00

2001 Merlot, Oak Knoll - With 12% Cabernet, there was an initial hint of green bell pepper which gave way to black cherry and black plum. A dark fruit mouth entry gave way to a dried floral and herb mid-palate. The dry finish was spicy with clove and nutmeg. $30.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll - Warm, opulent berry showed in the nose and in the initial taste. Some hints of tobacco provides integration and complexity. $42.00

1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Oak Knoll - Dark purple in color, dark berry liqueur showed immediately but a touch of jalapeño showed through. Blackberry teased the tongue and the dry finish demonstrated eucalyptus and cedar. $75.00

2002 Late Harvest Riesling - Perfumey honeysuckle and jasmine floral notes play in the nose. A velvety entry that is bright with a touch of citrus and just a bit spicy with a long-finishing sweetness. $50.00/375ml

Trefethen Vineyards ~ 1160 Oak Knoll Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-255-7700

Havens Wine Cellars - 89

Set off Highway 29, on a back road just south of Yountville, is a very unassuming winery, Havens. I had heard of Havens, but I had never had the opportunity to taste one and was honestly not even sure what they offered. A perusal of many of the wine sites I frequent came up mostly empty. I was intrigued and surprised.

Crouched under some very old, stately oak trees lies a cluster of buildings that make up the tasting room, winery, and quite possibly somebody's living quarters. It is secluded and peaceful and sets the stage for an adventure.

I wandered in last Saturday and met Peter Robichaud who, now retired, mans the reception area on weekends. Far from a classical tasting room, the small reception area could scarcely hold six or eight people and the service area is a mere sidebar where the wines are poured. Much to his credit, Peter knows how well their intensely rich wines pair well with food and even though I was his only guest at the time, graciously prepared a small cheese plate which certainly enhanced the tasting and the experience. Gracious from beginning to last and a great experience in tasting some amazing wines:

2001 Merlot - 14 months on French oak. Bordeaux-style with 5% Cabernet Franc, this medium-bodied offering shows dark cherry and blackberry tones in the nose, heightened with faint dried heather. Well-integrated and easy to drink, the dusty heather makes for a smooth finish. $24.00

2000 Reserve Merlot - Made with mostly Carneros fruit, this juice spent 22 months in French oak. Initial green bell pepper gives way to lush, dark cherry. Smooth and smoky in the mouth, the balanced anise mid-palate intrigues. $32.00

2001 Bourriquot Red Wine, Napa Valley - 62% Cabernet Franc and 38% Merlot. "Bourriquot" translates to mean "stubborn mule" which is a perfect description of the wine; spicy and complex with roasted meat qualities in its aroma. Swirling provides earthy fruit and a mouth entry that is complex and a bit tannic that will mellow with time. $35.00

2001 Syrah Napa Valley - With 3% Viogner. Intensely dark purple greets with heady soy sauce and dark herbs. A bit tangy upon entry, mellows with a swallow or two. Complex and elegant, the smooth acidity is tantalizing as it keeps going to produce dark chocolate and dried cherries. Balanced and truly amazing. $24.00

2001 Syrah Hudson Vineyard - I thought the previous Syrah was good but this blew my socks off. Cherry and soy sauce on the initial smell darkened to show smoked meat, roasted coffee, and black licorice. Like an intelligent, handsome man, this wine was complicated and juicy and one you want to grab onto and keep. $45.00

2000 Syrah Hudson Vineyard - It just keeps getting better and better with these Syrahs. Blackberry and raspberry liqueur that is poured over rare grilled meat. Tangibly chewy in its layers of flavor, the wine shows balanced minerals in the mid-palate and a sweeter licorice on the end. $45.00

2004 Abarino - Interesting that the tasting of some huge, over-the-top reds is finished with a fine, delicate white wine, but it works extremely well. The Abarino is perfumey with pear and white peach. A pale, clean yellow color shows some tropical fruit in the nose, but not cloyingly so. It teases with sweetness, but the entry is tangy with an exciting, crisp entry.

Havens ~ 2055 Hoffman Lane ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-261-2000

Koves-Newlan 88

Koves-Newlan Vineyards and Winery proved to be another one of those delightful surprises that happen now and then when exploring the Napa Valley. It is so easy to get swept up glitz and glamor of the Big Names in Napa and a delightful exploration to chance upon a winery that has been around for 40-some-odd years that may have a tremendous following, but was otherwise unfamiliar to yours truly.

Located on the west side of Highway 29, there is a small frontage road called Solano Avenue. Tourists driving the 29 might even miss the wineries on that side because they lie off the main thoroughfare and actually take some maneuvering to get to. In the case of Koves-Newlan, there is a sign that is relatively visible amongst the vineyards, but even the buildings themselves are nestled amongst some elderly trees, providing shade and protection.

The tasting room is down a small flight of wooden stairs and is more a collection of displays and a small service table, all surrounded by massive layerings of filled barrels. This is a working winery and the tasting room is also the barrel storage area adjacent to the winemaker's facilities.

On the day of my visit, one of the cellarworkers and aspiring winemaker, Tim Callahan, was manning the guest area. With lively blues as his background, he was informative on the wines and delightful in his presentation. I especially loved the story of the Late Harvest Riesling, but I'm getting ahead of myself...  Briefly, the Newlan Vineyards began in 1967 as many in the industry do; selling grapes to those who turned the agricultural product into world-class wine. Seeing how good their grapes really were, Newlan Winery began making their own wine in 1981. They changed names to Koves-Newlan in 1999 with the addition of the Sato family who owned Koves vineyard (not sure why they didn't call the winery Sato-Newlan!). Now they are producing their own exceptional wine with their own high-quality grapes.

2002 Chardonnay, Napa Valley - Lean, clean lemon zest. Sweet with ease of taste versus actual sugar. A creamy finish is satisfying. $25.00

2002 Estate Pinot Noir, Napa Valley - Sexy and alluring. This was a wine I was contentedly happy to sit and smell. Dried rose petals and eucalyptus up front blossoms to show the complexity and depth of an expensive Japanese soy sauce and sweet & sour pickles (the kind given at a really good omakase meal). An enticing mineral finish. Adorable, enticing wine! $26.00

2002 Estate Merlot, Napa Valley - Dark cherry and hints of green bell pepper show on first whiff. Soft tannins and easy fruit with a dry mid-palate. $26.00

2001 Zinfandel, Napa Valley - Jammy black plum and blackberry explode in the initial aroma. Taste include integrated spicy dark fruit that teases on the finish with toasted coconut. $25.00

2002 Cabernet Franc - Compressed dried twigs and dried eucalyptus leaves anticipate the dry entry. High tannins punctuate dark fruit in the mid-palate which brightens to show dried floral notes on the finish. $30.00

2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Approximately 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Concentrated purple in color with extracted dried leaves and flowers compressed behind dark blackberry. $35.00

2000 Late Harvest White Riesling - I am told there is a secret to this wine. The winemaker who produced it passed away and there are no notes on its production. At 13.8% residual sugar, it is not nearly as syrupy as others I have tasted. Hints of honey dance with orange blossoms in a bright bouquet. Balanced with even acidity, there is a touch of stone fruit and spice on the finish that adds layers of complexity. Very, very enticing wine. $30.00/375ml

NV Pandora's Port - An extremely unusual port made via the Solera system (a process normally used in the production of fine aged sherries, whereby a modicum of young wine is added to older wine for consistent bottlings). There is a "little bit of everything" in the production of this port and some of the older wines date back to 1985. The name Pandora alludes to the mythical box which was opened and let lose the miseries of the world -- except that in the myth, what remained for mankind was Hope. In the case of this wine, it is a lovely tawny color with sensual teases of brown sugar and depth with spice and complexity. Completely engaging and rapturous. $40.00/375ml

Koves-Newlan Vineyards & Winery ~ 5225 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-500-WINE

Laird Family Estate - 87

I had the mistaken impression that Andy Beckstoffer was the largest land owner of vineyards in the Napa Valley. A recent visit to Laird Family Estate Winery set that misconception to rest. Ken Laird and his wife, Gail, purchased their first piece of land (a prune orchard!) in Calistoga in 1970.

Now, 35 years later, the Lairds own over 2,500 acres of prime vineyard real estate. And for years and years, they only sold their grapes to other wineries. They didn't actually start making their own wine with all this acquired grape wealth until 1998, when they broke ground to construct an amazing building at the doorway to the Napa Valley at the beginning of the Oak Knoll District.

The story is told that the architect actually had originally developed this complex for Quintessa, who ultimately went with a different design. Several years later, the plans were presented to Ken who modified them for his own needs. It is stunning and I'm sure a tour of the production facilities would show amazing technological feats for while Laird's personal winery produces around 4,500 cases (only 1% of the grapes he actually grows), his estate acts as a Custom Crush facility for the dozens of other wineries he continues to sell to. But visiting Laird is to to witness the family's accomplishments and taste their excellent wine:

2004 Cold Creek Ranch Pinot Grigio - Initial bouquet of orange blossom with a hint of white peaches.  A bright, zingy entry produces grapefruit that is smooth and easy to drink. $16.00

2002 Carneros Chardonnay - 100% malo. Ripe, blossomy orange blossoms integrate with honey suckle and vanilla to show intense elegance. A clear, pronounced entry displays darker, more integrated flavors of fig and caramel. $30.00

2001 Red hen Ranch Chardonnay - 100% malo fermented in 75% new French oak. Ripe white stone fruit layers with vanilla that is clear and crips. Butter shows up in the back-palate. $40.00

2001 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay, Carneros - 100% malo. Creamy and rich, dark dried apricot with roasted nuts. $40.00

2000 Carneros Merlot - With 10% to 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Initial aromas of dark cherry and earthy mushrooms with a hint of green bell pepper. Easy and smooth red fruit meet the mouth and expand to show herbal and spicy qualities with keep going. $40.00

2000 Suscol Ranch Merlot - Ripe red berries and plums with darker cassis greet the nose but subside to display hints of darker tobacco. A jammy, spicy mouth entry heightens with loganberry that continues to a long finish which remains a bit tight. $50.00

2000 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Clear garnet in color, bouquet of dark cherry and blackberry show jammy, plummy flavors that enters with spice but layers and integrates with deep earth. $40.00

2000 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon - Ruby colors with brick tones on the edge, dark vanilla and blackberry excites the nose. A smooth, velvety entry is elegant and rich continuing the dark berry and finishing with brown sugar spice. $80.00

Laird Family Estate ~ 5055 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-0360

Van Der Heyden - 49

The idea of a "hidden treasure" in the Napa Valley is hard to justify, especially those on either the main drag of the 29 or on the Silverado Trail. There are too many vanity wineries with well-trained sales staff, stunningly decorated tasting rooms, and retail displays designed to part tasters with their cash. I have no compunction whatsoever in stating that Van Der Heyden STILL qualifies as a hidden treasure, for while it does lie on the Silverado Trail, the buildings and presentation of and by Andre Van Der Heyden is quite a treat.

A small cluster of buildings lies hidden from view behind the vineyards and sign on the street's edge. The cluster is exactly that -- signs direct guests underneath a temporary canopy to the tasting room which is little more than a trailer, barely able to hold more than eight or ten people. No frills and no glitz, on any given day all you will find is the diminutive personage of the larger-than-life Andre Van Der Heyden.

Andre came to California from Holland in 1963. After taking a home winemaking class in 1973, in 1977 he found a small piece of vineyard property just south of the Stags Leap District (before it was known as the Oak Knoll appellation) and opened his own winery. Still family owned and operated almost thirty years later, the character of its owner is more than worth a visit (but be prepared to listen closely -- after telling his story so many times, he tends to speak very, very quickly!)

2001 Van Der Heyden Napa Valley Estate Chardonnay - 100% malo with 100 French oak for ten months. Sweet, mango aromas which enter the mouth with dark and buttery tones which gives way a tangy mid-palate and finishes with bright, mineral tones. $22.00

2001 Van Der Heyden Merlot - Deep, dark, and elegant Moroccan spices on the nose which anticipates the dark Cabernet Sauvignon-like entry into the mouth. Stunning with a long, heightened finish. $35.00

2000 Van Der Heyden Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Aged 43 months in French oak! Intensely rich, dark nose of blackberry and chocolate-covered cherry aromas. Soft entry into the mouth with an extended, toasty vanilla finish. $50.00

2001 Van Der Heyden Estate Late Harvest Cabernet Sauvignon - "The only winery in the world producing a Late Harvest Cab! Harvested in 2001, to be bottled in 2005, 34 months in French oak." I was very fortunate to stumble into Van Der Heyden just as this amazing wine was bottled. There is a misnomer that all late-harvest wines are overtly sweet and while this wine has 5% residual sugar, I did not anticipate the dark, layered complexity of this wine. There was the meatiness of a Cabernet and the hint of sweetness from the late-harvest qualities gave the wine a characteristic of BBQ meat. I drove away simply thinking, "it was grilled BBQ in a glass." Truly astonishing. $50.00/375ml

NV White Table Wine - Only the fourth time having been made, this wine is a blend of Late Harvest Semillon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of green apple and citrus almost contradict the rich, creamy entry. While slightly syrupy in consistency, it is not sickly sweet with a crisp, dry finish. $18.00

Van Der Heyden Vineyards ~ 4057 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-948-WINE

Luna Vineyards - 16

As one begins the drive up the Silverado Trail out of Napa, the very first winery that can be visited is Luna Vineyards. The facilities and reception area are lovely -- a large, free-standing bar is the focal point for the tasting area with retail options scattered around. While there, make a point of asking about the tower. While tasting on a bright, sunny afternoon, we were invited to take our classes and ascend up to the viewing tower which provides a fabulous view of the neighboring vineyards.

The emphasis at Luna is on Italian varietals and their winemaker, Mike Drash (formerly of Far Niente) has helped Luna produce a very respectable collection of wines. It was a quiet day and I was able to taste through their entire book, much of which I greatly admired:

2003 Estate Pinot Grigio - Light, bright honeysuckle nose. While there was an immediate crispness on the entry, a rich, creamy mid-palate of peach gave way to a delightfully long finish.

2003 Tocai Friulano - A grape which I am unfamiliar with, but hope to taste more of. Apparently this is farmed from the Vista Verde Vineyard near Monterey. A rich, guava-like scent anticipated the tropical fruit mouthfeel.

2002 Reserve White Wine - 52% Pinot Grigio, 29% Tokay, and 19% Sauvignon Blanc. Well-balanced acidity in with aromas of roasted nuts.

2002 Sangiovese - Actually a blend of 84% Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, and 3% Syrah. Very nice earthy aroma with spicy overtones. Full, jammy mid-palate with a leathery finish.

1999 Sangiovese Riserva - This is a fabulous wine - very nice, ruby color. Roasted berry aromas with a hint of anise. Very even tannic structure and rich, full finish.

2002 Sangiovese Riserva - This wine is 100% vineyard-designate. Considerably younger than it's 1999 cousin, I suspect it will age gracefully. A bit more earthiness on the nose and much bigger tannins.

2001 Merlot - Remarkably young with green bell pepper aromas. Dark earthy mouthfeel that is more chewy than I would have liked.

2002 Bordeaux Blend - 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 7% Sangiovese. Shockingly young-tasting wine. Elegant spicy nose with hints of clove. Thin entry in the mouth and acidic finish. Needs more time.

2000 Canto - This wine was a complex blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah (although I failed to get the exact proportions). I was immediately struck by the sweet nose of anise.  The mid-palate was a tad green and young, but finished with very round, full minerally fruit. Quite lovely.

2001 Mille Baci; Late Harvest Pinot Grigio - Rich, complex dried stonefruit filled my mouth. This wine is not fortified, but picked at 37 brix and finished out at 16.5 residual sugar. Would love to try a glass with Roquefort cheese.

Luna Vineyards ~ 2921 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-255-2474